Formex Essence ThirtyNine Automatic Chronometer — Green Dial

39 mm stainless steel · Green machined dial · COSC-certified Sellita SW200-1 · 100 m water resistance

For those unfamiliar with Formex, the independent Swiss brand has developed a strong following among watch enthusiasts by concentrating on engineering, finishing, innovation, and value rather than traditional luxury-brand marketing. Formex is particularly well regarded for its clever case and strap engineering, including the brand's patented Case Suspension System and exceptionally well-designed micro-adjustable clasps.

The Essence in particular has attracted considerable attention from the watch press. Chrono24 Magazine featured it as an alternative to the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, memorably comparing its futuristic character to “a Royal Oak from the distant future,” while making clear that the Essence maintains its own distinct design identity. Gear Patrol has similarly featured the Essence ThirtyNine as an affordable alternative to the Patek Philippe Nautilus, highlighting its impressive specifications, COSC-certified movement, sophisticated dial construction, and patented Formex engineering.

At 39mm, the Essence ThirtyNine hits an excellent balance between wrist presence and everyday wearability. The stainless-steel case combines brushed and polished surfaces and incorporates Formex's patented Case Suspension System, one of the features that makes the Essence unlike most watches in its category.

The green dial is particularly attractive. Its horizontally machined surface changes considerably depending upon the lighting, ranging from a relatively restrained green to a much richer and more vibrant appearance. Applied indices and excellent finishing give the dial considerably more depth than photographs sometimes convey. Inside is the Swiss Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement in COSC-certified chronometer specification, providing independently tested mechanical accuracy.

The movement can be viewed through the sapphire exhibition caseback.

The Essence ThirtyNine is one of those watches that makes considerably more sense once you have handled one. The combination of finishing, chronometer-certified movement, unusual case engineering, excellent ergonomics, and Formex's attention to small functional details gives it a level of execution that is difficult to appreciate from specifications alone.

This green-dial example is particularly appealing because of its very complete provenance and accessories, including box, papers, extra strap and original purchase receipt, with the upgraded wooden presentation box.